An exercise in basic hammerwork, finishing, and assembly
by Eric Slyter
Page 2 of 8
Now that we've taken a look at the tools and materials you will need for this project, you need a pattern to build from. The one presented here was adapted directly from the one in Techniques of Medieval Armour Reproduction. I say "adapted" because I have learned that each individual, and the tools at their disposal, will work a given pattern differently, and to get the desired shape (which also may change from individual to individual) a pattern will usually need tailoring after one sees the results they get from it. So, this is my adaptation of that pattern... and you will doubtlessly tailor it to your vision and tooling after you discover what shapes you get with it. (see also: Facts and Myths about Armour Patterns)
This printable pattern is proportioned in length and width for about a 14" (35.5cm) circumference bicep on an individual approximately 6' (1.85m) tall. The straps are 1/2" (1.25cm) in width. It is easy to simply place this on a copy machine and make it larger and smaller, but remember that it will become larger or smaller in all directions- thus if you make it to fit a 20" (50cm) arm it is going to be extremely long on an individual who is 5' 9" (1.75m). The v-shaped lame should be about 7" across at its appropriate proportion. Modifying a pattern in length or width is not difficult to do as long as you have a general shape to start from. Each pattern piece includes all the holes that are necessary, with the football-shaped "cops" including 2 optional holes at the very top which can be used to lace the finished product to your maille, costuming, etc.
The pattern also includes the internal leather straps as well as the bicep strap and buckle strap. The top of the internal leather strap is identifiable because there is a longer gap between the holes (you might want to mark it as such on your pattern- I know mine by heart). It might seem trivial, but having these small parts all patterned out will save tremendous amounts of time in successive efforts.
Getting Started
Wear gloves whenever handling sheet metal. Make sure you have enough space to lay your steel out. You don't want it falling off an inadequately sized table and falling on your foot! (see also: 18 Things I've Learned About Sheet Metal)
Lay your pattern parts out and trace them onto the steel with your black marker, keeping in mind the method that you will be using to cut the steel (ie, leave adequate space to manuever around the pieces). In this pattern, you will need 2 "cops"; 2 of the lames that are straight across the top; and 6 of the v-shaped lames. Mark all the holes also, and when you are done take your center punch and a light, non-metal hammer, and center punch the holes (Figure 2).
Figure 2
Next, cut the steel out. I used my Beverly B-2 shear for this as seen in Figure 3.
Figure 3
When you are done cutting the steel out, you will find that the resulting pieces have nasty, flesh-cutting edges that need to be de-burred. This can be done with a file. Alternatively, this is where your bench grinder, 5" buffing wheel and 6" sanding discs (or whatever the method you choose) come in.
Note: grinders and related motorized tools are extremely dangerous. They are basically designed to destroy anything that touches them, and they don't care if that is steel or your clothing, hair or skin. Treat them with profound respect and caution or you will learn the hard way.
Take the grinding wheel off and place the buffing wheel on the arbor (makes sure there is a washer present to keep the wheel where it belongs). Then place a sanding disc over the buffing wheel and lock it down, as seen in Figure 4. This provides a flexible backing against which to work the steel, and a "lip" of sanding disc overhanging the buffing wheel to really get into contours (when doing finish work). I prefer to use either 80 or 100 grit discs for this process. You must use care with this method, because if you press the steel against the disc too hard you will shred the disc or it will tear the steel from your grip, or both. When doing any sanding, I wear a dust mask, a face shield and hearing protection. I also choose to wear gloves. I have heard that there is a risk that the gloves can catch on spinning machines such as grinders (and cause terrible injury), but I've never even been close to having that happen. Gloves have, however, saved my hands from burning on hot metal and being abraded by sanding discs. Use your best judgement in your own situation.
Figure 4
The goal with de-burring is to first sand the edge flat, taking out all the little snags and then to carefully sand the corners to about a 45 degree angle leaving space on the flat edge, so that your edges essentially resemble this:
_
/__\
You want to avoid having sharp corners, and simultaneously want to avoid creating a "knife-edge." Practice will reveal the right amount of pressure and speed with which to move the steel against the spinning disc. There is also a spinning nut that can get annoyingly in the way, so be sure to keep your knuckles, and the steel, away from it (practice makes this easy). Keep the piece moving, don't linger in any one place too long or you'll create noticeable spots that aren't true with the rest of the edge. The metal may get very hot... it may even discolor, turning blue. That means its very hot, so be extremely careful. This discoloration isn't going to harm the end product since it will come away in the finishing, but you generally don't want to be in the habit of letting it get that hot in the normal course of things. Replace the disc as is necessary (as your skill grows, you'll go through fewer discs). Figures 5 and 6 shows this process in action.
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