These layouts describe the components for simplified versions of the Corbridge and Newstead Roman segmented armours. The Corbridge plate shapes and dimensions are adapted from the Legio VIII Augusta website (now defunct), but with rivet hole and fastener positions.
Even before obtaining the materials, do a bit of research, and get used to how this type of armour looks. Robinson's Armour of Imperial Rome (1975) has excellent diagrams, and there are a number of other good references (Bishop and Coulston, Simkins) which are well worth checking out. The Legio XX home page has detailed information and is a must-see. At the very least, look around on the Internet for Robinson's illustrations (e.g. "Quest" Armory Page, Legio XXIV, or here).
Second, try a full-scale mockup (cardboard cereal boxes or plastic food buckets, fastened to cloth ribbons with staples or brass paper split-rivets, are just fine). This will allow you to "tune" the pattern to your own specifications by adjusting the size and working out any bugs well in advance. The added bonus is being able to disassemble the mockup and use it to draw the cutout patterns (including where to put the rivet holes in the internal strapping, which I haven't included here). Mistakes in leather and steel are a lot harder (and more costly) to fix. (see also: An Introduction to the Skill of Making Armour and Facts and Myths about Armour Patterns)
The lorica segmentata is the style of Roman military armour which replaced the older lorica hamata (mail shirt). Unlike many other types of plate armour, the pieces are curved rather than dished/raised, which makes it a desirable pattern for beginning armourers who have limited equipment. (A wide piece of metal pipe can be used as an anvil.) The main idea is to have the abdomen protected by a series of overlapping hoops which are hanging from vertical leather straps. The plates which form the shoulder assembly are also held together by straps. Plate overlap is like roof shingles, with everything pointing down .
The main layouts show the components as they would appear all spread out. When you are assembling the pieces and riveting them to the internal straps, remember that there will be some overlap. Refer to the Robinson (or equivalent) diagrams. Matthew Amt of Legio XX in Maryland suggests that strapping should be made of 5 oz. vegetable-tanned leather (thicker than 1/16" but not as bulky as 1/8"), for the right combination of toughness and flexibility. I've elected to use leathers 0.75" to 1" wide for the internal and fastening straps. Robinson's diagram suggests that rivets ought to be doubled on the straps holding the waist sections together, but I have gone with singles. If you want to use double rivets, adjust the strap width (say to 1.5") and hole pattern accordingly. Don't forget to use backplates (burrs) on the rivets which go through leather. Historical evidence suggests that the edges around the neck, the bottom edge of the lowest waistplate, the outer edge of the last armplate, and the top edges of the waistplates under the arms were rolled or folded over, for safety and strength.

Copper roofing nails (period-type rivets); small 4 or 6-hole mending plates (sturdy eyes for Corbridge "B", "C", and Newstead); crafts and hobby stores (beads and buttons for ornamental disks around exposed rivets, unattached 0.75" to 1.5" belt buckles).